Kyoto Itinerary (2 Days), Part 2: Arashiyama, Ryōan-ji, Kinkaku-ji & More

How are your feet feeling after yesterday’s part 1 in East Kyoto?

I wasn’t joking when I said Kyoto is a 20,000-step city. Day 2 is no different, but the main change is the atmosphere: today you’ll soak in more of Kyoto’s natural side. From a sunrise walk through Arashiyama bamboo forest to the quiet of Ryōan-ji’s rock garden, this itinerary gives your feet a break and your morning a breath of fresh air.

Even if you didn’t follow Day 1, this guide stands perfectly on its own. Today’s route covers some of Western Kyoto’s most famous landmarks and offers a completely different pace from the busy streets of Higashiyama. So set your alarm for 4 a.m.—because we’re starting early again, and the reward is worth it.

Wabi-Sabi

As you move through Western Kyoto today, you’ll notice that many gardens and temple grounds look deliberately untouched. Moss grows unevenly, stones aren’t symmetrical, and some spaces appear worn rather than restored. This isn’t neglect—it’s intentional.

Wabi-sabi is a Japanese aesthetic that values age, imperfection, and quiet simplicity. In temple gardens, this means allowing nature and time to show rather than erasing them. Keeping this in mind helps explain why moss is left alone,  some gravel patterns aren’t always pristine, and “unfinished” often means “complete.” The wilderness has beauty as well as curated perfection. 

Two Quick Notes About the Bamboo Forest

First—I mentioned this in Part 1, but it bears repeating: mind your manners and respect the environment. The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is nationally recognized, and carving your name—or your partner’s—into bamboo is completely unacceptable. It damages a living plant and ruins the experience for everyone else.

If you’re feeling romantic, Kyoto has dedicated “love shrines” where you can express those feelings in ways that are culturally appropriate. One famous example is Jishu Jinja (地主神社), located right next to Kiyomizu-dera. I’ll cover that in a future post. For now, just be respectful of the natural and cultural landmarks on this itinerary.

Second—Before we dive in, you’ll need to make a decision about your start time. Arashiyama is beautiful, but it’s also one of the busiest areas of Kyoto. If you visit at a normal hour, expect crowds. If you want a peaceful moment or a clean photo, you need to go early.

Pros of going early:

• You get the forest almost to yourself.

• You experience that quiet, ethereal morning atmosphere.

• The light is perfect.

Con:

• Most attractions nearby don’t open until later in the morning.

One solution is to visit the grove before sunrise, take your photos, enjoy the silence, and then grab breakfast while everyone else is still waking up. It really comes down to the type of trip you want—both choices are valid.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (6:00 - 7:15)

Our starting point is Kyoto Station, and the goal—same as Day 1—is to beat the crowds to one of Kyoto’s most iconic locations: the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest.

Your train departs at 5:31 a.m. on the San-In Line (for Sonobe) and takes you to Saga-Arashiyama Station. From there it is a 15 minute walk.

The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is special for reasons that aren’t obvious at first glance. It’s one of the few expansive, publicly accessible bamboo forests in Japan, stretching along a 400-meter path. Historically, this area belonged to Tenryū-ji, and its soundscape—the wind rustling through thousands of bamboo stalks—is officially protected as one of Japan’s “100 Soundscapes.”

At sunrise, the grove glows with a soft green light that filters down the path. Visit early and you’ll experience something rare in Kyoto: silence, space, and a natural setting that feels almost otherworldly.

More information about the 100 Soundscapes on the Ministry of the Environment website—bottom of page 16

Timing Note

If you arrive at 5:30 and explore for about 90 minutes, you’ll finish around 7:00–7:30 a.m. The temples and shops nearby don’t open until roughly 8:30–9:00, so this is the perfect window to grab breakfast.

I have two recommended breakfast options, both open within reason, and both are near the area with short walks. If you can go to both—I would, but that is just the foodie in me speaking. 

kyocafe chacha— a relaxing environment that reminds you of your grandparents vintage living rooms. They serve coffee and waffles along with other delectable treats. Perfect for savoring the calm before the storm (the walking).

Bread, Espresso and Arashiyama Garden “Espresso and”—Where traditional Japanese aesthetics meet the modern age. From the outside, it’s a repurposed kayabuki (thatched-roof) house, while the interior blends modern Japanese seating and clean, contemporary design. They also have a large breakfast menu that would make any matcha lover’s head spin.

Tenryū-ji (8:30–9:30)

If any temple in Kyoto has survived everything, it’s Tenryū-ji. Fires, wars, political upheaval, confiscation of land during the Meiji era—you name it. When you visit, give the place a metaphorical hug.

Tenryū-ji sits on the western edge of Kyoto and connects directly to the bamboo forest. Depending on how early you finish your walk, you might need breakfast before it opens.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Tenryū-ji is famous for its beautiful landscape garden and large koi pond set against a mountain backdrop. It’s peaceful to the point where you may forget that you still have a full itinerary ahead of you.

Arashiyama Station (10:00–11:00)

Arashiyama Station isn’t just a transit point—it’s practically its own attraction. Inside and around the station you’ll find:

• Restaurants

• Game centers

• Small shops

• The Kimono Forest (illuminated poles wrapped in traditional kimono textile designs—very photogenic)

• Some of the cutest trains you will ever see

One thing that often surprises first-time visitors is how the train fare system works here. Unlike most trains in Japan, you pay on board before you exit. If you’re using an IC card, the touch reader will be inside the train rather than at the station gates. Don’t rush—just tap before you get off.

Another detail you shouldn’t overlook is the street running alongside the station. It’s lined with souvenir shops, food stalls, and little restaurants. This is a great spot to pick up gifts or grab something quick to eat.

Side Quest: Buttered Taiyaki

If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon a shop selling buttered taiyaki—a fish-shaped pancake stuffed with sweet bean paste and a slab of butter. It’s decadent, nostalgic, and stupidly good when served hot. I wish I remembered the exact shop name, but don’t worry… I’m not the only one who forgot. The smell of fresh taiyaki will guide you.

After taking photos, wandering the shops, and eating your pastries, you’ll be ready for the next leg of your journey: Ninna-ji Temple.

Ninna-ji Temple (11:30–12:30)

Take the train from Arashiyama Station to Omuro-Ninnaji Station. When you exit, look straight ahead—you’ll immediately see the imposing Nio-mon Gate (二王門) marking the entrance to the temple grounds.

Located in Kyoto’s northwestern district, Ninna-ji was founded in 888 and, like many historic sites in the city, has endured wars, fires, and multiple reconstructions. This will be the second UNESCO World Heritage site on today’s itinerary.

The temple’s official website (English) provides several route maps, seasonal highlights, and even information on temple lodging. Yes—you can actually stay overnight at Ninna-ji, making it one of the more unique cultural experiences available in Kyoto.

Take your time here. The grounds are expansive, calm, and noticeably less crowded than Kyoto’s more central temples. I once passed through Ninna-ji with my sister, and before entering the main paid area, we noticed a few small food stalls set up near the grounds. One was selling pickled vegetables—radishes, eggplant (pass), and other local specialties. Another offered a Kyoto snack I hadn’t encountered before: salted shirasu, tiny dried baby sardines or anchovies.

The women running the stall noticed us lingering and waved us over. We chatted briefly, and they offered us a sample—an easy, unforced moment of omotenashi. I ate the shirasu in one bite. It tasted a bit like fish jerky and, honestly, wasn’t bad at all.

When they offered some to my sister, she hesitated. She didn’t want to be rude, so she accepted. But watching her wrestle with that decision—convinced she was about to eat worms—made me forget how much pain my feet were in. Good times.

Ryōan-ji Temple (12:45 - 1:45)

From Ninna-ji, it’s a 15-minute walk to Ryōan-ji, home to the world-famous Zen rock garden and another UNESCO World Heritage site. Even if you’ve seen photos before, nothing compares to standing in front of it in person.

Ryōan-ji is expansive. As soon as you enter, the grounds naturally slow your pace—everything feels like a quiet stroll, even if you’re working through a packed itinerary. Some areas of the temple look as though they haven’t been stepped on in centuries, thanks to meticulous preservation.

A large scenic lake sits near the entrance, complete with a small island accessible by a bridge. By now you’ll be used to removing your shoes at temples, but Ryōan-ji takes you deeper indoors than most.

As you follow the wooden corridors, you’ll finally arrive at the iconic rock garden: fifteen stones arranged in precise formation surrounded by perfectly raked white gravel. Visitors are encouraged to remain quiet—not because anyone will scold you, but because silence is the best way to absorb the atmosphere. The stillness is part of the design.

Lunch (1:45 - 2:45)

This is a good point in the day to stop for lunch before continuing on to Kinkaku-ji. There are several casual options in the surrounding area, and even a short break here can make the rest of the afternoon more enjoyable.

Kinkaku-ji (3:00-4:00)

From Ryōan-ji, hop on the city bus and get off at Kinkaku-ji-michi. As you approach the entrance, you’ll immediately notice the heavy security and tightly controlled flow of visitors. There’s a good reason for that: Kinkaku-ji is the most famous temple on this entire itinerary, across both Day 1 and Day 2.

Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺), also known as the Golden Pavilion, is one of Kyoto’s most recognizable landmarks. The top two floors of the pavilion are covered entirely in gold leaf, and when the sunlight hits it just right, the reflection in the surrounding pond looks almost unreal—like something out of a painting.

The structure was originally built by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu as a retirement villa. After his death, one of his sons converted the estate into a Zen temple, which is how it came to function in its current form.

This temple draws crowds year-round, so expect people, especially large tour groups. The walking route through the grounds is one-way and moves at a steady pace, but there are still plenty of opportunities to pause, take photos, and view the pavilion from multiple angles. The first angle is the most famous with the temple in the back with the pond in front. The path then takes you up close.

My first thought of the temple after seeing it in textbooks at the school I was teaching at the time was,”This is it? It’s so small.” But the temple itself is incomplete without its surrounding nature. The entire environment is what makes it the most beautiful.

Biggie Smalls vs. Tupac—From Beef to Mochi (by 5:00 p.m.)

After a full day of walking, temples, and crowds, there’s one last stop that makes for a perfect, low-key finish. Not far from Kinkaku-ji, near Imamiya Shrine, two small mochi shops sit directly across the street from each other. It’s about a 25-minute walk, and well worth it.

Imamiya Shrine dates back to the late 10th century, and Ichimonjiya was established to give pilgrims a moment of rest. They sold—and still sell—aburi mochi: small roasted rice cakes skewered and draped in a lightly sweet miso sauce.

Centuries later, someone looked across the street and thought, I can do that too.
That’s how Kazariya came to be (metaphorically speaking).

Both shops claim to be the original. There are no signs, no arguments, no drama—just two places doing the same thing, quietly, for hundreds of years. Unless you read about it or ask the staff, you’d never know there was a rivalry at all.

Think of it as a very polite, very Kyoto version of a Biggie-and-Pac rivalry—minus the beef, heavy on the mochi.

Have one skewer at each, decide for yourself, and call it a day. By this point, you’ve earned the ending.